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This is an advantage when shooting in low light conditions as it will increase the possibility of hand holding the camera and freezing the subject without shake or blur caused by the longer exposures. Prime lenses also tend to have a larger maximum aperture (f/1.4 to f/2.8). The main advantages of prime lenses or fixed focal length lenses are their size and weight as well as their maximum aperture or f/stop. Prime lenses tend to be more compact and lightweight than zoom lenses. They are ideal when you are photographing a variety of subjects such as landscapes and portraits, and you just want one lens for both situations. Using a zoom lens also reduces the number of times you need to change the lens which saves time and limits the possibility of getting dust in the camera's mirror box or on the sensor. Zoom Lens BenefitsThe advantage of a zoom lens is versatility. Prime lenses have a fixed focal length and zoom lenses have variable focal lengths. you will convince me I should buy one.There are two types of lenses-prime and zoom. Maybe instead of me convincing you to not buy one.
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If you decide to buy a monopod anyway, I'd be interested to know how much you feel it helped your photos. Near sunset, so I had to gamble on a lower shutter speed
#Focal length panolapse iso#
High ISO and I could have processed better, but very very sharp handheld, late day Here are some shots with a rebel T5 and the Tamron lens. So if I really needed more steady shots, I could double my shutter speed and shoot at f/6.3 instead. But I personally have no problem with a perched bird, shooting handheld.ĩ9% of the time, I shoot stopped down to f/9, to get a little better sharpness. And of course a monopod can help if the bird is sitting still. The exception is if you know a place where you can get above the flying bird, like a cliff. If he's close, he's too far above you to use the monopod, so you must lift everything.
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If the bird is in flight, a monopod is useful if you can leave it on the ground, but usually you can only do that if the bird is flying far away. Plus, the Tamron stabilization is quite good. Since I never used it, I can't say definitely "don't buy it". But, if you have extra money, there are other things you may want to buy to improve your birding. The Tamron is the lightest big lens around! In addition to the regular sliding movement, Panolapse corrects the wide angle lens distortion to create panning illusion, so it works best with wide angle lenses. I've done pretty much exactly the same lens and camera for bird photos, and I never felt I needed a monopod. Panolapse works much like other panoramic viewers, only it does so while moving through a sequence of photographs, creating the illusion of a moving camera.
#Focal length panolapse full#
So when it comes to this the topic, a tilt head is more suitable any way you look at it because was specialy designed for monopods, full stop. I successfully use a closeup filter to shoot macros but that doesn't mean that a closeup filter is the best solution for macros. With all due respect to your excellent skills of successfully use a ball head on a monopod, let's not forget that the topic is not about your skills but about what head is more suitable for a monopod. The key is to tighten the friction knob to my liking, but each to their own. I can keep the monopod vertical, thus supporting the weight completely while I have complete freedom to tilt the lens forward/backward and side to side ( even to go from landscape orientation to portrait). Again in my experience with the Manfrotto ball head I have mounted and with tightening the friction knob sufficiently I have the best of all worlds.